Book Review: How to Sew Leather, Suede, Fur

How to Sew Leather, Suede, Fur
by Phyllis W. Schwebke and Margaret B. Krohn
Published in 1974
ISBN: 0-02-011930-5

Some Chapter Headings:
Leather-Then and Now
Making a Leather or Suede Garment
Selecting Furs and Patterns
What About Mink?

I liked:

• The plain and simple instructions.
• The "clean" explanation of the preparation of leather and suede.
• The list of types of skins and their common uses.
• Specific instructions about which needle to use and how to find the correct machine stitch for sewing with skins.
• Instructions for recycling (restyling) old fur garments

My dislikes:

• Not any really. The book appears to deliver on its title.

Conclusion:
While this book isn't cute or trendy, I think it serves its purpose right well. If you are ready to tackle a garment of skins, check this one out before you cut.

Would I buy it for myself? Probably not. If I decide to remake an old fur or tackle a genuine leather garment, I'll just check it out again.

Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Not a beginner's book.

Berry Picking

We went blueberry picking yesterday. I was able to snap a few pictures before the natives got too restless (10 minutes into it!).

The haul:
Watching the sorting:

The 3rd little blond is a friend from kindergarten and a neighbor.

We ended up with 4 full quart-sized bags. That's plenty for this crowd.

Things are hoppin'...

Several weeks ago, the Little Man discovered some frog buttons at the local fabric shop. This led to jubilant exclamations over frog appliques, frog fabric, frogs in general. I let him pick out a fabric and opted for the frog applique in a $9.99 grab bag (50 appliques and I have a 6 year-old designed diva). Here are the results:

The top and shorts are Simplicity 5537 (OOP, I think.).

I cut a size 4 in both. The only changes I made to the pattern were:

• The pattern called for contrast flaps on the shirt pocket, contrast bands on the sleeves, and a contrasting collar. I chose to leave those off because my green was "just" the wrong color.
• I interfaced my pockets on both the shirt and shorts with a very lightweight interfacing. That always seems to make my patch pockets look so much nicer.

Here's a close-up of the pocket:

The shorts include cargo pockets. I didn't have any twill tape, but I discovered some very well aged bias tape in my stash that worked for the tab. Here's a close-up:

And of course, the frog applique...I just fused it, then outline stitched it onto a store bought tee.

And last, but not least, I picked up this piece during our beach trip. I'm thinking the LM needs some boxers.

And the frog buttons? Well, they didn't get used at all. Oh well.

The City Meet

Cram several thousand people under 100+ pop up tents, throw in hundreds of swimmers under the age of 10 and lots of heat and humidity and what do you get--the city swim meet!

Here's an idea of the crowd...And of course, you must occupy the said swimmers (wet, slimy with sunscreen, and tattooed with race, heat and lane numbers):And when it's finally their turn...
You have to have a great cheerleader!

I'm really proud of the Big Girl. She earned her 2nd fastest freestyle time (37.something seconds) and her fastest backstroke ever (33.37 or so...)!

The Curse of the Jellyfish

What a trip to the beach! We had beautiful weather (most of the time) and a safe trip. Only one complaint: The jellyfish!!!

So, since we really didn't want to swim with the jellyfish, we had to find something to do. We spent about 6 hours at the closest outlet mall. Broke and with another day to go, we opted for a dolphin cruise. This is the best picture I got. Of course, it was perfect when my sweet LM declared "A Shark!!!"

Book Review: The Golden Hands Complete Book of Dressmaking

The Golden Hands Complete Book of Dressmaking
by Elizabeth Baker, Allison Louw and Valerie Punchard
Published in 1972

ISBN: 0-394-48548-3

Some Chapter Headings:

Generally Speaking
Shirtmaking (actually, every section is about skirts, so I believe there's a typo in the table of contents!)
Muslin-making
Blousemaking
Dressmaking
Pantsmaking
Know-How
Sewing for Children

I liked:

• The good tips in "Generally Speaking", that are written for beginners, but are good reminders for more advanced sewers. For example, "Always choose a thread one or two shades darker than the fabric... " (page 11).
• The comprehensive measurement chart on pages 13 that includes 27 measurements, and the instructions on how to measure them.
• The bluntness of Chapter 5 "Coming to Grips with Your Figure". Yikes! The subtitles are "Which type are you?" and "What is your problem?" Double yikes!
• Awesome instructions for using your dress form and padding it to match your measurements! This is the first time I've found these!
• The way the chapter on fabrics shows photographs and labels of many types of fabrics.
• A great table on the faults of wrinkles in a skirt, and the pattern adaptations to correct them.
• An actual plan for making, fitting, perfecting and using a muslin!!!!
• The great Vogue patterns from the 1970s that were made and photographed for this book. You can tell they are dated, but many of the styles are still very classic!

My dislikes:

• It's ever so slightly difficult to find the tip you need.
• The horrid picture of 2 little girls on page 237 wearing fuzzy yellow fleece coats. They look like miniature ducklings!
• The idea that it is very likely I probably wore a stretch terry cloth playsuit like those pictured in the Sewing for Children chapters. But hey, it was the 70s!

Conclusion:
This book is thorough. You can find instructions for everything from using your muslin to adapt patterns to covering snap fasteners with fabric. And, during this season of the dress, I can't rave enough about chapter 36, "The shirt dress story" or chapter 34, "The jumper conversion". I'm not familiar with Golden Hands or any of their other how-tos, but if you are looking for another great, well-rounded resource for garment-making then this is your book.

Would I buy it for myself? Despite the very blunt advice regarding my "figure problems" ("If this is your problem, your figure needs the very best support you can afford." Gee, thanks.), I have already ordered this book from my favorite online bookstore. You can get it as low as 13 cents + shipping. That's crazy!

Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Yes. Yes. and Yes.

Book Review: Of Course You Can Sew!

Of Course You Can Sew! Basics of Sewing for the Young Beginner

by Barbara Corrigan

Published in 1971

ISBN: 978-0385076975

Some Chapter Headings:
Equipment
Fabrics
Accessories from a Straight Piece of Material
A Shift or Robe from Turkish Towels
How to Use Patterns

I liked:

• The prose. For example, take this paragraph from the Introduction, "Haven't you envied your friends who have an endless supply of new clothes which they've made for themselves? You hear tales of how an inexpensive piece of material from a remnant counter has turned into a lovely party dress, while you've been trying to figure out how to persuade Dad to give you still another advance on your allowance to cover a down payment on that dress you saw in the store window."
• The chapter on "Basic Stitches" that covers everything from threading a needle and diagrams showing how to knot your thread to explaining running stitches, back stitching and hemming.
• Instructions on how to use a thimble (a lost art for certain!).
• A great chapter on the basic sashes, belts, totes and headbands.
• The "How to Use Patterns" chapter that is most thorough, including pinning, marking darts and notches, stay stitching, and facings.

My dislikes:

• Not any really, especially when you consider this is a book for beginners.

Conclusion:
"Cute." That's the word I'd use to describe this book. I think it is absolutely darling. I love the way it's written. It covers the most basic of basic ("Now place two layers of material together, and pin them together.", page 22) while also explaining techniques like under stitching. Plus, I love the confidence it exudes when, in closing, it promises "When you have learned to make all the things presented in this book, you will be able to create an almost complete wardrobe, lacking only a coat and slacks..." (page 127).

Would I buy it for myself?
As a sewing instructor, I am considering this book. I think the progression it uses to teach sewing would work very well for beginners of any age.

Would I buy it for a beginner sewer?
Most certainly. This book would be perfect for someone that has never sewn, but is ready to start.

Simplicity 5581-YUCK!

I don't care how talented you are. Some patterns are just duds! Take this one for example:

About 2 years ago, my smart-mouthed hubby said, (and this is a direct quote, I could never forget these words) "It's too bad you can't make men's shirts, but they are probably much tougher than women's stuff."

WHAT?!?!?!? Has he failed to notice that we women have waaay more curves than men do? What is he talking about-tougher?

So, taking that dare for what it was, I marched right down to Hancocks and picked up 2 men's patterns and 2 pieces of fabric just for him!

Fast forward 2 years...(babies, kindergarten, and wardrobe contests got in my way.)

I pulled out Simplicity 5581 and the beige and blue seersucker fabric I'd originally selected for him. I guessed on measurements, based on the shirts in his closet. (No way, I'm gonna tell him I'm working on this until I'm done!) I cut the pattern in an XL and set to work.

I'd assumed that the pattern would include flat-felled seams, like most men's shirts I've seen. It didn't, but since I know how to do them, I figured I'd just finish my side seams like that. Well, that led me to wondering if the shoulder seams needed to be finished in the same manner. So, off to his closet I go--only to discover that every single shirt hanging in there had a back yoke and a collar stand (in addition to the collar)! Even the beachy, Hawaiian ones!

Well, this pattern doesn't! It doesn't have flat-felled seams. It doesn't have a back yoke! It doesn't have a collar stand! But being the frugal-minded (Ha!) person I am, I'm determined to finished it, even if it does look cheap and homemade. And tomorrow, when he opens it as his Father's Day gift, I'll snap a picture to prove that it does look cheap and homemade.

So, yes, Simplicity 5581, Views A and B, are destined to be a complete loss. Why waste your time even drafting a pattern that will look cheap and homemade when finished? And--note to self--always, always, always look at the line drawings on the back of the pattern envelope first!!!!

Thankfully, Hancocks had a sale on McCalls patterns this week. I picked up 4518. It doesn't have a collar stand, but it has a yoke. (And done in a tacky Hawaiian print, I don't think it will look quite so corny.) I think I'll try this one next:

Then I may give this one a go. I have a nice piece of french blue linen that would look nice on him. It was suggested by Kristine who is making a dress shirt for her hubby.

My new favorite applique

At the request of a favorite customer, I set about to find a great teddy bear design. Here it is:

I think it's my new favorite!

Two weeks of tee-shirts...

I cleaned out my closet this weekend. A dreadful chore, but well worth my time. I made the most amazing discovery--even with the 2 wardrobe capsules I've finished lately, my closet is still terribly out of balance. I have 16 great casual skirts and only about 6 tops to coordinate with them! And, you probably know what that means...

Simplicity 2971: White cotton Jersey

Simplicity 4020: Kimono-sleeved top in Teal Jersey

Simplicity 4074: Red slinky knit

Vogue 7799: Red ITY knit

Burda Style: Sadie: Cowl neck in hot pink jersey

I think I can knock these out over the next two weeks (once I finish 2 orders and a couple of father's day gifts!)

Book Review: The Vogue and Butterick Step-byStep Guide to Sewing Techniques

The Vogue/Butterick Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Techniques
by the editors of Vogue and Butterick Patterns
Published in 1989
ISBN: 0-13-944125-5

Some Chapter Headings:

• Applique
• Bindings
• Collars
• Facings
• Gussets
• Linings
• Overlock
• Shoulder Pads
• Yokes

I liked:

• The quick, easy-to-use format. They certainly don't waste any words. The only text not in a tutorial is the opening page, where the book is explained.
• Opening any one of the 47 sections to find well-illustrated instructions on sewing techniques.
• The "Binding" section. It starts with a quick tutorial on making your own binding strips and then covers those icky situations like turning corners and neatly joining binding.
• The information in the "Layout" section that covers cutting plaids and stripes. It includes gentle reminders like, "Avoid placing a heavy, dominant horizontal stripe at the bust line or waistline." (page 209) Sounds like really good advice to me!
• The "Pocket" section. I wish I'd had that information the first time I tried to make a self-faced pocket. The illustrations are very clear.
• That this book even includes a section on "Shoulder Pads". Should they ever come back into high fashion, I'll know just where to turn!
  

My dislikes:

• The "Lining" section
• No "invisible zipper" reference
• The entire book is dedicated to garment sewing. Sure some techniques could cross-over into home decorating, but all the examples illustrated are garments.

Conclusion:
At first glance, this was one I wanted to put back on the shelf. But, as our local branch of the library has such a limited selection, I figured I better at least have a second look. I'm so glad I did!

This book is one to have on your shelf if you are moving toward an advanced beginner and intermediate sewing level. Not every sewer has mastered every technique, so having a quick, well-illustrated guide is quite handy. While I had the book for 2 weeks, I managed to use the sections on:
Binding
Buttonholes
Collars
Edge Finishes
Gussets
Hand Sewing
Layouts
Pressing
Vents

Would I buy it for myself? I have it "Saved for Later" on my favorite book-buying site. But, I'll probably pass. At least, as long as I can find it on the shelf at the library.

Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Maybe. This is definitely a great addition to the library of an advanced beginner.

My Retro-'60s Top

I made this top, hoping it would work as part of mini-wardrobe. It didn't (the collar was wrong), but now I've got another great top.

Vogue 8392

Very Easy Vogue

Misses'/Misses' Petite Top: Pullover top has front pleats. View A has short sleeves.

As always, I made a few alterations to the tissue paper pattern:

• Folded up 1 inch at the petite line.
• Folded up 1/4 inch to raise bust point.

But other than that, I made this top as is. The instructions were great and the top was very easy. I finished it in a Saturday between swim team practice and an end-of-the-school-year party. I have already pick out another piece of cotton to do it again!

I love the collar best of all!

My hero! And a very frustrating pattern...

My hero...

This pattern is actually a birthday gift our sweet friend John, but I needed my LM to model for me so that I could rant about this pattern. I won't go into it here, but if you plan to make a knight's cotume, read my review on PR first!

My button hole trim

Here is a close-up of the button hole trim around the buttons on my pink jacket:


Here's how I did it:

1. Cut 7 inches of ribbon for a 2-inch trim.
2. Fold over 2 1/4 inches.
3. Mark the 45 degree line.
4. I sew this on freezer paper because my ribbon often gets bunched under my presser foot. It will also help if you will lower your presser foot first--then your needle!
5. Trim the corner.
6. Press it open.
7. Fold over 3/4 inches.
8. Mark the 45 degree line and stitch again.
9. Fold the remaining length back onto the length of top. Mark the 45 degree line and stitch again.
10. Mark the intersection of the miters.
11. Fold the top onto the bottom, matching the intersection.
12. Mark 45 degree line.
13. Stitch.
14. Trim the excess.
15. Press it open.
16. Fray check your edges and stabilize if you wish. If you stabilize, you will have to rip the stabilizer between the ribbons.
17. Secure it to over your button holes, matching openings.

My Next Big Sewing Plan

Well, PR's mini-wardrobe contest is over and I've finished it. Time for a new sewing plan: Tim Gunn's 10 Essentials.

A number of sewers are working on a similar project right now, and quite frankly, it just makes sense. I have the fabrics to create these pieces, so why not go for it. Here's his list and my takes on it. You'll notice, I've some of the pieces already!

1. Basic Black Dress -I just finished 1 in my big wardrobe and a very dark chocolate brown (which I love more than black) in my mini-wardrobe.
2. Trench Coat - This one has been cut and ready to sew for 3 years now. Maybe it's time to finish this UFO!
3. Classic Dress Pants - My goal for the summer is the perfect fitting pair of trousers. I haven't decided which piece to use from my stash: the navy, the brown tweed, the brown plaid, the black...
4. White Shirt - I think I look better in ivory. And, I've just finished one button up and one pull-over in ivory. That's done. Check.
5. Jeans - Well, I've mastered the jean skirt, so how hard can a pair of jeans be...
6. Cashmere Sweater - I'm buying this one! It'll be my treat to me when I finish the other 9 pieces! I'm think V-neck and maybe royal blue or orange. Something striking.
7. Skirt - A-line, I think, and maybe in a dark grey or brown suede or a cute plaid?
8. Day Dress - I just bought a shirt dress (Vogue 8021) and I have got a beautiful pink cotton that is screaming to be a summer dress. I think I will take out the front and back pleats and just gather the skirt.
9. Blazer - Would my mini-wardrobe jacket count?
10. Sweat Suit Alternative - Can I just remind you how much I love my TNT pants pattern? I think my new khaki pants from the mini-wardrobe count here. Oh, and then there are the black pants and the jean skirt from the big wardrobe contest. I think we can count this done.

Bonus: 1 trendy item. Hum? Gotta think on this one.

I post a storyboard of sorts later. Let me know what you think...

Book Review: New Complete Guide to Sewing

New Complete Guide to Sewing:

Step-by-step techniques for making clothes and home accessories

Published 2002 by Reader's Digest

ISBN:0-7621-0420-1

Some Chapter Headings:

• Sewing equipment and fabrics
• Neckline finishes and collars
• Fastenings
• Tailoring

I liked:

• The format! It is very easy to open this book to the contents and quickly identify the chapter I need.
• The great fitting section. There were lots of photos showing how and where to measure for 16 useful measurements.
• The great diagrams showing fit alternations on pattern tissue.
• The diagrams showing common "wrinkles" and how to adjust fit for each.
• 14 pages of hand stitches!

My dislikes:

• Only one-The extensive list and descriptions of fabric has pictures, but they aren't complete or labeled.

Conclusion:

I refer to this book at least once a month. It has more information than I could ever list. In fact, it would be easier to list what's not included than to tell you everything that is! So far, every time I've need information, I've found it here! I use the fitting chapters more than anything else!

This book has 20 projects throughout that use the techniques covered in each chapter. It also has a quilting chapter, but you should note that it consists of only 2 projects and no additional diagrams or explanations. The book also contains a 4 page glossary.

Would I buy it for myself? It's the most used book on my shelf!
Would I buy it for a beginner sewer? Absolutely.

My swimmer...

Yeah! Our BG took 5th in her very first 25m freestyle this past Wednesday! Here's a look.

Here's her backstroke (lane 4). She placed 8th in this one.